Saturday, 29 September 2018

The Devil Went Down To Brentor


Today is the 29th of September, Michaelmas Day. Although rarely celebrated now, this was an important date in olden times. Indeed, the feast of St Michael, Archangel, was a quarter day, one of the major points on the calendar. It was especially important in the farming world, as it denoted the end of summer and beginning of autumn.

The Michaelmas Daisy (Astor)

Nowadays, the term Michaelmas is most often heard in relation to the terms of grand old universities, such as Oxford and Cambridge. Otherwise, it might be heard to describe a beautiful plant known as an Astor, which for of its late flowering habits, is commonly referred to as the Michaelmas Daisy.

St Michael was a highly regarded figure in mediaeval society, feted for his role in sending Lucifer tumbling from the heavens. So much is clear from the number of old stone churches named after him.

In Brentor, on the very edge of the high, mysterious plateau of Dartmoor, stands one such church. St Michael de la Rupe.

It boasts a most unusual location, perched atop a tor overlooking the borders of Devon and Cornwall. Tiny and exposed, devout pilgrim and secular tourist alike must climb a steep path to reach its doors.


But why should a church have been placed on such an unlikely spot to begin with?

The explanation is colourful. Local squire Robert Giffard founded St Michael de la Rupe (of the Rock) in 1130, following a scary experience at sea. Caught in a storm off Plymouth Sound, he prayed to Almighty God for deliverance, pledging to build a church on the very first piece of land he spied, should he be kept safe from the tempest. The storm died down and, approaching Devon's shores, Robert caught sight of Brentor rising above the morning mist. Being true to his word, he fulfilled his promise. St Michael de la Rupe is now the smallest, and probably highest, parish church in England.

The Smallest Parish Church in England

Another explanation is that the devil put it there! Well, of course he did. When he wasn't off hunting for souls with his whist hounds, or stopping off at the Tavistock Inn for a quick beer, he was busy making life as difficult as possible for the good folk of Brentor. It didn't matter how many times they tried to build a church in their village, Old Nick would thwart their plans by throwing it to the top of a nearby hill. Anything to prevent them going to Mass on a Sunday.

St Michael de la Rupe is on a leyline, which runs from St Michael's Mount in Cornwall all the way to the East coast of England at Hopton-On-Sea. Along this route, the line cuts through the famous Glastonbury Tor, upon whose crest lies the ruined church of St Michael. Elsewhere in Somerset, it cuts through Burrow Mump, where a ruined church dedicated to St Michael can be found upon a hill. I imagine even the most sceptical amongst you is sensing a theme here!

And well you might, for this esoteric path is aligned in such a way that it follows the exact line of the sun as she rises on the 8th of May. A day celebrated in the past as the Feast of the Apparition of St Michael.


Friday, 28 September 2018

Of course, that was all just a little fun. A work of fiction, a tale that leapt from my imagination, like a child who jumps from behind a wall to shout, "Boo!" at passersby.

However, the Fox and Goose at Parracombe really is haunted, by at least ghost. I know this for sure
because, although I neither saw nor sensed anything out of the ordinary there myself, Emma most certainly did.

Emma, by a Moose at the Fox and Goose!

We stumbled across this friendly, quirky pub during our first visit  to Exmoor. It was Good Friday last year, the batteries in Emma's smartphone had just died and, with them, our Google Maps directions to the moorland farm we were staying at.

Seeing a brown tourist sign for a pub, we took the detour off the A39 to Parracombe, hoping for directions from a knowledgeable punter. We got them and more besides, for the Fox and Goose was serving Litehouse from the Forge Brewery, a delicious local ale, and it was friendly and welcoming to the traveller.

From that moment on, it became our favourite place to visit and we have been back each time we've travelled to the Lynmouth area again. We've even stayed there overnight. It's fair to say we love it.

The current structure is a modern building by Exmoor standards. It's late Victorian in origin, the original inn having been demolished in 1893 to make way for what was in those days a state of the art hotel.

Indeed, it lost its colourful name and was rechristened The Family & Commercial Hotel.

At this time, it served the coaches plying their trade between Barnstaple and Lynton. The Tantivy, Glen Lyn and Tally Ho were all regular visitors.

Perhaps it was from this time that our ghost belongs, for Emma got the sense of somebody standing above her as she enjoyed a glass of wine at one of the tables by the window.

A man in a dark uniform of some kind, a man who wore a hat.

She imagined he may have been something to do with the stagecoaches, possibly the driver, or a porter employed by the hotel itself. If the latter, he would have been a person whose responsibility it was to ensure travellers got onboard their coaches safely and in good time.

Whoever it was, he neither meant, nor caused, any harm and his presence did not alarm the pub cat, who continued to stretch herself by the window.


The moggy was either oblivious to the ghost's presence or so used to him that it no longer bothered her. Interestingly enough, Emma saw nothing during our first visit, on Good Friday 2017, but has seen the man during the three visits since. I've still seen nothing out of the ordinary.

Here are a couple of pictures of the Fox and Goose from the past. Perhaps one of the gentleman captured on film remains here to this day.

The rebuilt, and renamed, Family and Commercial Hotel

The original Fox and Goose Inn

A romantic way to travel




Wednesday, 26 September 2018

Strange Noises On The Moor

"Well, me lovelies, we'll begin nearby I reckon, at a place I know right well. Marragrove Farm, to be precise, above Barbrook on the road to Porlock. Can be a wild place, the moor, 'specially on an autumn night, an' you won't come across many in the village who'd venture up to Marragrove after dark. Not a chance. Not after what folk say they've 'eard there."

The old woman who speaks is a crone in every sense of the word. A cap of flat grey hair adorns a face so weather-beaten, you'd think she was hewn from stone at the famous Valley of the Rocks. She's a hooked nose and two or three whiskers on her chin; her fingers are gnarled with arthritis, the skin thereabouts as cracked as dry leather. But her eyes sparkle with intelligence, warmth too, and you are drawn instinctively to her. She's a friendly old maid, Lorna Davey, kind and likeable. Her soft voice is as Devon as clotted cream. There are worse ways to spend an evening than listening to her share a little local folklore.

Settling by the fire in The Fox and Goose, Lorna relishes having an audience hang upon her every word.

There is mischief in those old green eyes, and you realise that much of what she says is exaggeration. Perhaps there is a kernel of truth, however, for she appears certain in her tale. Confident that it will stand up to scrutiny.


The way the old boys at the bar nod in agreement suggests so, anyway.


"It all started with Maud Harris, 'er what married young Bowser from out Oare way. What she wanted to marry outside of the parish for, I dunno, for 'tisn't like there weren't plenty of men in Parracombe who'd 'ave said yes to Maud, an' God 'Imself knows Bowser weren't no catch. An idiot too, with more teeth in 'is 'ead than brain cells, an' there were few enough of them! Too much cider, I reckon were to blame. Rotted each one out by the time 'e turned twenny."

Maud, you learn, was fetching in a comely wench sort of way. Pretty enough a maid, nicely shaped, but what local men found really appealing was the farm she'd inherited on her parents' death in a shipping tragedy off Lynmouth. Handsome farmhouse and forty acres of pasture, plus grazing rights on the moor. Some said there was silver in the ground thereabouts and sinking a mine might turn a profit. It was no wonder her hand was coveted by all the bachelors around.



Her choice, then, was poor. The marriage was ill-starred, as many in the village thought likely. Bowser proved to be a domestic tyrant, a mean bully, and he treated his bride cruelly. Once he'd his fingers on her land, he was wanton in his violence.

No longer was she seen each Sunday at church, which was strange, her being known as devout in Christian faith. Parish gossip said this was because she wanted to hide the bruises her husband inflicted when in one of his many drunken tempers. Rages that became all the worse when it became clear that his hopes of taking silver from the ground would fail.

"Tisn't no metal in the soil there, of course, never 'as been. But folks'll tell a pack of lies to gullible outsiders. Anythin' to get the greedy devils to open them purses an' spend a little cash on the moor."

An old man at the bar pipes up, his pennyworth shared whether it's wanted or not.

"Speculators, they call 'emselves, down from London to win fortunes from mines. Already rich but always wantin' more, so long as their own 'ands ain't ever dirtied. Mighty easy to trick folk like that, already blinded with 'em own greed. Make a few false promises of copper or tin, a plan drawn up by a bribed surveyor from down Tavistock. They come an' they sink their 'oles in the land, an' eventually they find out 'tis nothin' down there but darkness. Yet the discovery only comes about once they've been milked for every shillin' the crafty can get off 'em."

It was therefore an old trick, one well-practiced by the cunning, but the claims of silver at Marragrove Farm were false. They were the work of Maud's father before his untimely demise.

Yet the shafts sunk into its pastures served a purpose in the end. Young Bowser's labour was rewarded in a way he couldn't have envisaged, his sweat from digging did not go to waste. For when Maud finally had enough of the daily beatings, when she could take no more of the man's cruelty and abuse, a fresh use was found for one of his shafts. It became his grave.

"She couldn't 'ave done it 'erself, though. Maud weren't strong enough for that sort of work, so she got 'er sister involved, a woman of far more vigour an' purpose. Asked for help an' got it, just like it says in the bible. Ask an' it shall be given unto you, seek an' ye shall find."

The old woman laughs at her own joke and the men at the bar join in. Thirsty, you force yourself away for a moment from a story that fascinates you, whose violent outcome you long to hear. Taking your glass to the bar, you ask for another drink.

As you'd probably expect, the landlady is a middle-aged woman of formidable shape. Perhaps barrel-shaped, as befits somebody pouring ale from wooden casks each day.

Pint of ordinary, she asks and you nod, wondering idly at how long it must be since beer was routinely described in such terms. So old-fashioned sounding to your modern ears. Maybe it's because you're so engrossed in her customer's tale that you fail to properly register the landlady's clothes and style of hair, how equally out of sync they are with the times. She mustn't have updated her wardrobe in many years.


And you expected the room to feel cooler away from the fire; even so, it's with a chill that you realise just how cold it is at the bar. You wonder how the men standing there can bear it, yet they don't seem at all bothered. They're dressed as though for summer, in the kind of outfits more suitable for July work outdoors. It's almost freezing now and you notice your breath leave a frosty cloud when you open your mouth to thank her. It's with relief that you rejoin Lorna at the fireplace.

"Drunk 'e were, as always, but this time with a brutal consequence. Maud's sister struck 'im fair, 'ard on 'is 'ead, an' 'e went down as though kicked by an ox. Then they rolled 'im up in the kitchen rug an' carried 'im between them, all the way to the deepest shaft. Dumped Young Bowser in, like so much rubbish. Then toiled until sunrise, makin' sure 'e was covered with enough soil an' rubble to keep 'im quiet. That's right, 'e were buried alive."

Lorna's tale brings murmurs of support and approval from those propping up the bar. The man who spoke earlier pipes up again, his voice granite firm when he says the two women did the right thing.

"A man what beats a lady is no kinda man at all. Deserves everthin' 'e 'as comin', I reckon. Not only that, but 'e'd 'ave killed 'er in the end. If Maud an' 'er sister didn't roll Bowser's stinkin', cider-swollen body into the ground, it'd be 'er lyin' beneath the soil now."

"Tis true enough, but poor Maud 'ad to leave Marragrove shortly after. She got no peace there. Young Bowser could only be dead, yet from the next night on, 'e was 'eard, scrapin' away at the ground above 'im. Scrapin' away, night after night, as though 'is corpse was tryin' to dig itself to freedom."

"An' maybe it were, Lorna, for 'e was close enough to 'Ell underground to fear the Devil catchin' 'im. Lord knows 'e were a terrible sinner. 'E would 'ave done anythin' an' everythin' to escape the eternal justice that were 'is due."

"Amen to that. Anyway, be that as it may, she 'ad no choice but to move away an' find lodgings in the village. Couple of rooms in a larger house. An' nobody will buy Marragrove Farm. Not when folk 'ear Bowser scrapin' away at the earth above 'im. Night after night after night."

How do you people know all this, you suddenly ask. The story Lorna tells must be set many, many years ago, when mining was encouraged on such beautiful spots as Exmoor. Long before it became a national park, before tourists flocked to appreciate its loveliness, the peace and quiet. The tale is from the distant past, yet these folk you share the bar with at The Fox and Goose appear deeply moved, as though it happened only yesterday. Why, you demand, is it so important to them?

But, of course, you already know the answer, don't you? You know who Lorna is; the men at the bar in their farming clothes; the landlady in old-fashioned attire. And as they turn their ancient heads towards you, confused expressions adorning puzzled faces, you realise it is they who do not understand. They've been keen to share a fascinating ghost story, never realising that they are the ghosts themselves.










Sunday, 23 September 2018

Pray Welcome, Come Inside

Fall is upon us and the weather has been raw all weekend. Come in and settle down by the fire, give yourself the chance to dry off before its warming flames.

There is nowhere on Earth as welcoming on such a night as an English country pub. Fortunately, here in rural Devonshire we're spoilt for choice, with some of this island's finest within easy reach. Though autumn's bite may chill the bones, her touch a shiver to the skin, you're never too far from a place of comfort, warmth and friendship. And maybe even sanctuary. From things that seem somehow more real, more frightening, now that the bright days of summer are gone.

The historic Blue Ball Inn is one such place, her sturdy stone walls and chimneys promising shelter from fierce winds blowing in from the sea. She has perched atop Countisbury Hill on Exmoor since the 13th century, overlooking the small fishing village of Lynmouth, once-upon-a-time a smuggler's haven, romantically christened Little Switzerland by the poets Coleridge and Shelley.
We'll talk about the Blue Ball Inn later, for she has tales of her own, as befits an historic pause on old coaching routes. In the meantime, how about we sup our ale before making it down the steep hill into Lynmouth, a village that boasts an ancient drinking hole of her own, the 14th century Rising Sun?

On a hot summer's day, crowds flock to this lovely pub. One comes across people from all over the world sat outside, making the most of the sunshine. Holidaymakers all, they'll enjoy a pint, a glass of wine or craft gin, the beautiful harbour views.

But on this late September night, she looks sort of moody. Ominous even. Her windows shine with lights yet, strangely enough, they fail to draw you in. It is cold and dark, salt spray stings your cheeks; all the same, you linger outdoors in the night air. There is something about this former smugglers' refuge that unsettles you. That makes the hairs on your neck stand up.

And so we continue on to Parracombe, a community so ancient she can trace origins to Neolithic times. Bronze Age man, hill forts, standing stones and Norman castles, she has them all. Here, too, we find the Fox and Goose, a Victorian coaching inn built upon a much older hostelry.


The Fox and Goose offers a warm, friendly welcome. Her bar is a chaotic ensemble of stuffed animals, local artefacts and other bric-a-brac. A moose's head, reputedly pinched from Billy Butlin's office at the nearby Minehead holiday camp, adorns one wall. The ale is good, the food even better, and the stove is lit. Outside, the storm is picking up apiece. We'll remain here for a couple of hours.



There's little better on a cold, dark night than hearing a ghost story. Needless to say, Devon and Cornwall possess as many good ghost stories as good pubs, and the Fox and Goose makes the perfect place for their telling. This is especially true since the pub is haunted; I know, because my girlfriend Emma Jane has seen something here herself. A man standing over her.

Settle yourself down and relax with a drink. If you're ready to hear about some of the spooky tales of Southwest England, then I will begin. Some of the tales are well-known, many are not. Some feature the rich and famous, others involve plain ordinary folk. All of them, I assure you, are true(ish).